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Just the vacation spot for a headstrong, adventure-loving, cocktail-imbibing, fashion-conscious chick.

Long averse to non-Muslim curiosity seekers, the Kingdom is now flirting with tourism, though drinking is forbidden and women can’t drive—or do much of anything—without a man.

Armed with moxie and a Burqini, the author confronts the limits of Saudi Arabian hospitality, as well as various male enforcers, learning that, as always, it matters whom you know.

I wanted to know all about Eve.“Our grandmother Eve?

” asked Abdullah Hejazi, my boyish-looking guide in Old Jidda.

Under a glowing Arab moon on a hot winter night, Abdullah was showing off the jewels of his city—charming green, blue, and brown houses built on the Red Sea more than a hundred years ago.

(A hard-line Muslim cleric in Iran recently blamed provocatively dressed women for earthquakes, inspiring the headline SHEIK IT!) According to legend, when Adam and Eve were evicted from the Garden of Eden they went their separate ways, Adam ending up in Mecca and Eve in Jidda, with a single reunion. ) Eve’s cemetery lies behind a weathered green door in Old Jidda.When I suggested we visit, Abdullah smiled with sweet exasperation.It was a smile I would grow all too accustomed to from Saudi men in the coming days.It translated into “No f---ing way, lady.”“Women are not allowed to go into cemeteries,” he told me.

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I had visited Saudi Arabia twice before, and knew it was the hardest place on earth for a woman to negotiate.

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